The Japanese art of short stays is informed by their culture’s genius for small spaces, impeccably curated.
Pod’s are overnight accommodation, perfected in the business world of Tokyo and other big Japanese cities. The archetypical business man works til 8pm, goes to dinner and enjoys more sake than recommended.
Too late for the commute home, he checks into a ‘pod’ – ready to go straight back to work tomorrow. The pod, also known as a capsule, is a space just big enough for sleeping. The pods in the metropolises are stocked beside and on top of each other. A sort of rubic’s cube crossed with camping.
Now, the pod concept is available for travellers around the country. Especially in ski resorts. So, here I am, a 60 something traveller, whose search filters usually start with 5 star, signing up on booking.com to a pod “hotel” in Hokkaido.
My other search filter is always ski in ski out, hence Moiwa Lodge, despite its 3 star rating, popped to the top.
Moiwa Lodge Pod Hotel is located slope side in a tiny Onsen town about two hours drive from the main Hokkaido city of Sapporo. Moiwa has 6 ski lifts, 470 meters of vertical, a very active slalom training area, and a whopping 10 – 15 meters of snow per year.
Japan’s northernmost island is famous for all sorts of things: wilderness hikes, volcanos and thermal springs, seafood, dairy products, and, of course, powder snow. The ski resorts up there near the 43rd parallel are growing like topsy thanks to an influx of Aussie’s making their way to enjoy “Japow” …the quality and abundance of beautiful ski runs and volcanic mini peaks, such as Mt Yotei, the Fuji of the north. Yotei’s sleek and symmetrical slopes and its snow topped crater draw the eyes from all across the island, and provide a serene backdrop for your insta shots on bluebird days.
On my arrival, there is so much snow, the 6 steps up to the door of Moiwa lodge are invisible. Tramping into this brutalist lodge – no log panels here, its all concrete and glass – one is handed a swipe card to one of 6 dormitories, with 16 pods in each one. Guests here will be sharing with every nationality and gender. Your bed is your room for your whole vacation. It’s sitting or sleeping room only.
But it’s a cosy and private space. Think tiny, tiny, caravan. There’s a little shelf for your specs and your books (over 60s will carrying backup sets of both), a digital safe for your passport, plenty of charging points, and a small mirror.
The dorms themselves have floor to ceiling windows with a glorious view of the slopes, and the continuously falling snow. However, clamber into your pod head first, pull down the very effective block out blind behind you, and you are in complete privacy …and darkness.
The pod has no window or natural light, but find the switch for the high tech lighting system and you can set the tone of your “cabin” – white light, blue light, even pink – or some combination, depending on your mood, and need for sleep. Brilliantly designed really, and there is a large lockable space under the bed for your luggage.
I did mention clambering. The pod is elevated 1.5m from the floor, There is a very Japanese, simple method for getting to the pod. Just two smallish ledges, big enough for the ball of ones foot, and a rail to steady yourself. Pretty easy for the median aged pod dweller (around 20) to negotiate. Over 60s – please go steady – especially after a day on the slopes, and the knees are feeling it.
For the solo Traveller, meet and greet over the brekky buffet is portent to a lovely day on the slopes. The breakfast features local produce from the farms of Hokkaido – boiled eggs, tasty butter, fruit and vegetables, and the cutest bite size croissants with delicious blueberry jam.
From the warmth of the dining room, you can look out to the slopes and imagine yourself first tracking down that powder. Or watch the speed skiers setting up the slalom ropes and poles. Oh, to be that quick again…or ever, really.
You don’t have to ski everyday. Moiwa is a picturesque village with peaceful walks through the silent and beautiful birch forests. You can take long tramps along tree lined paths, over bridges, and along cascading rivers. Look for cosy ramen restaurants along the way, or head to one of the many Onsens in the town for a relaxing afternoon of healthy indulgence.
What to pack for a week in Hokkaido
- Pretty thermals. Look for layers with lace edges and a bit of colour and pizzaz. That way your underwear works as outerwear when shedding the outer coats.
- Long Johns or woolen undershorts. Great under your jeans at night, or for an extra layer on the slopes.
- A sports bra you can trust. This is an active holiday, and you want to be well supported and comfortable all day.
- Waterproof and lined outdoor shoes. You really can’t go anywhere without the right footwear in Japan’s deep snow. Even the footpaths are often a foot deep in fresh snow.
- Great Pyjamas. Travelling with others, or living in dorm style accommodation, calls for presentable sleepwear.
Best Purchase this trip
A set of glazed clay sake cups