You have to like mussels. Up on the Coromandel Peninsula, it’s mussel chowder, mussel curry, mussel pies. Ooh la la…what about Mussel Croquettes?! Then there is steamed or baked mussels. Not enough for you? …ask for crumbed, battered, or, possibly the very best…smoked! On Saturday mornings the locals eschew pavement sausage sizzles, and flip mussel fritters on the BBQ instead. A very rich and hearty snack, for sure. From the local takeaway chippy to high end restaurants, the renowned New Zealand green lipped mussels are calling out to you. Or hop on a fishing charter to get up close to the mussel farms and natural habitat of these (little bit hairy) mollusks.
The other thing you have to like in the Coromandel is winding roads. Worthy of a Top Gear road trip, the way from A to B here is often paved with gravel and four or five hair pin turns every kilometre. Add 45% steeps, and you are getting the picture of a lot of intense driving. The roads hug cliffs and gorges, one minute, then down on the waterfront, with waves nearly lapping the tyres. Scenic yes; relaxing, no!
Worth it though, for the amazing vistas, and quiet spots at the end of the road – deserted beachs, grassy cliff tops, views of far flung South Pacific Islands, and bracing walks through pristine forests to rumbling waterfalls.
Despite the low latitude (equal to Canberra), the vegetation in the narrow peninsula (just 40km wide at its broadest point) is dense and musky rain forest, brimming with tree ferns, magnificent kauri pines and gently waving palms. It’s a quiet and isolated place, with the largest town centre, Thames (yes, the English links in architecture and names are everywhere), only 7000 strong. The area is named after HMS Coromandel which berthed somewhere in the vicinity in 1820.
The peninsula’s counter culture roots prevail, with the simple life, and a natural and artistic bent, obvious. Of course, city money is recently encroaching on the beachy, alternative lifestyles, with designer mansions beginning to dot the hilltops and waterfront.
This is no Noosa or Byron Bay, though. The cars are old, the fishing dinghies are drawn to and from the boat ramps by tractor, and the school notice board advertises “Calf and Lamb” day. Little old fashioned beach huts, “bachs”, all along the coastline, are modest, basic and oh so cute, some with a very definite hippy hangover.
The beachfronts still have uncrowded water’s edge campgrounds. Stephanie’s visited on the King’s Birthday long week-end in late October, and honestly, the whole place was pretty quiet. Maybe everyone is out oystering, spearfishing or doing a 20km hike…? A highlight is Port Jackson at the very northern tip of the peninsula, reached via a short but extremely winding road (the 55km trip along the coastline cliff edge takes a nail biting 90 minutes minimum). Swim here, and be free.
There are plenty of other quiet beaches with terrific surf, interesting estuaries and bird watching, rocky bluffs, caves, or cliff tops to explore. Otama Beach is a couple of kilometres long, and enjoys big stretches of overhanging trees to escape the sun. A beach volleyball court on the sand is part of the relaxed and family feel of this friendly country. The long horseshoe curve of Opito beach has crystal clear waters, with visiting Orca whales. Climb steep stairs on the eastern promontory to investigate Māori pa remnants. Clamber over a wooden stile, that protects you from the electric sheep fence, and wander through grassy farm land to reach Oyster Bay, a rocky and secluded beach, where daring locals leap off the surrounding cliffs, into the green ocean below.
Intrepid surfers will walk around the bluffs and find the best waves and secret beachfronts. It is possibly illegal to camp on the beaches, but there is is more than a whiff of counter culture still in the air here. As the surfers ride to the shore at sunset, and the driftwood bonfires light up on dark, it seems a little bit of rule breaking is allowed out here on the Coromandel.
Things to pack for a long weekend on a quiet peninsula…
- Car sickness medication – all those winding roads!
- Swimmers of course, and a rashy for warmth (if you don’t have a wet suit to hand)
- Fleece or hoody, it can be quite cold even in spring.
- Raincoat or fold up umbrella for the regular storms that roll through
- Hiking boots suitable for steep terrain and rocky ground.