Adelaide is the only city to host a Gilbert and Sullivan festival outside the UK. That’s sort of understandable. One needs an exceptional grasp of English, and a healthy interest in (1850s) Britain to follow the Operetta plots precisely. Subtitles probably wouldn’t assist, as the screen would be rolling devilishly quickly with the fiendishly fast lyrics so loved by Gilbert.
Sadly, as well, G & S is sometimes too light hearted and irreverent to please the opera fans, and perhaps too passe to go up against a Hamilton.
But Adelaide swims against the tide of popularism. Around the city, one sees barely a single ad for popular entertainment, save some bus stop promos for Bert the Chimney sweep. In SA it seems, the culture isn’t in big theatres. It’s in basement wine bars, cafes and pubs, historic inner-city churches and surburban Baroque Halls. Yes the find of a week long sojourn in Adelaide (for the inaugural South Australian G and S Fest) is a recently opened Salon (the musical type not the spa type) tucked in amongst the suburban bluestone terrace houses.
Imagine if you will, classical and baroque concerts two or three times a week, playing to houses of just fifty people, all paying over $300 a ticket to be up close and personal with informal cellists and pianists. (OK, the artistes were wearing White Tie and Ballgowns, but their manner was decidedly fun). On the night I found myself in this little piece of rococo decadence, we were served canapés and local wine, prior to a breathtaking culture sensation of contemporary and classical ballet to a backdrop of an Oboe Soloist. Now that is swimming against a tsunami, not just a tide.
The grand Her Majesty’s Theatre (the centre of the G & S action that took place from 12th – 22nd May, 2023) perches on the edge of the surprisingly glitzy Gouger Street Chinatown – two or three blocks of shoulder to shoulder noodles, ramen and hot pots.
The best thing about Adelaide’s culture is that it is all available smack in the middle of marvellous little precincts that hum with great service and exceptional food from everywhere. French, Spanish, Korean, Japanese, Vietnamese, Indian, Persian, Greek. Cubby holes and classy dining rooms fill the city with a cornucopia of choice and quality.
It’s all affordable, and waiters, baristas and barstaff are serving up great food and drinks, without the side of Attitude. That’s against the tide too, in the average western city these days. Look out for Adelaide’s many Apertivo spots, and even a corner pub will serve a vermouth with aplomb. It’s too good to be true.
Don’t get me started on the gardens. The State botanical garden is a wonder, boasting 200-year-old pines and cedars, scented gardens, and Victorian Glass houses with gigantic African lilies, and dastardly Madagascan cactii.
What a pleasure to stroll Adelaide’s neatly laid out streets and lane ways (turn off wretched Google, and easily work from a paper map or a concierge sketch). Note the sharply dressed ladies, in tailored coats, colourful shoes, and glossy bobs. Gents with pocket squares, pastel jackets and suede shoes. How refreshing too, to return to some old fashioned high street shopping. LVMH has not taken over Adelaide – one happens upon quirky homewares, loads of vintage and upcyclers, boutique shoes and fashion, dress rentals, and one off locally made/owned retail. No active wear chainstores (phew!) but a LOT of bicycle sellers.
Yes, Adelaide’s beautiful boulevards, tram, bus and bike lanes thoughout the city, expansive greenspaces, dynamic cultural scene, and fashionable folk, mean that it has much of the good, with almost nothing of the bad. This city is..
Paris without the dogs
London without the noise
New York without the crime
Melbourne without the black.
Now a little more about that G and S Fest. This was a festival that wowed with local talent and big personalities. The casting was superlative, matching brilliant and charismatic actors, who could also sing (very well), with lead and chorus roles as Judges and Jurors, Vicars and Policeman, Pirates and Sailors, Titled Dames and Major General’s daughters. Each singer fairly shone in their roles, bringing their characters to life and telling the sometimes mad cap stories with energy and vitality, and in true G and S terms, hilarity.
Most of the performers/musicians were local members of the State Opera/Symphony Orchestra and others were established stars such as Jeremy Kleeman and Nicholas Jones returning from overseas commitments specifically for their appearances at the Festival. Desiree Frahn and Jeremy Tatchell were poised and elegant in a touching afternoon recital of some of Sullivan’s little known love songs and duets.
Well known national musical and screen performer, Ben Mingay, was rather naughty and nautical in lead roles in Pinafore and Pirates of Penzance. Brisbane baritone Aidan Hodder, in his first lead role, played an athletic and brilliantly expressive Wellington Wells in The Sorcerer.
All performers were backed by intricate costuming and ingenious staging, with a highlight, the performance of Trial by Jury, right in the Supreme Court.
Congratulations to State Opera South Australia for a marvellous festival, and three cheers to Adelaide for being Adelaide – you’re a lot more than churches, that’s for sure.
5 things not to forget when packing for a week in the winter in Adelaide
- Beret, polo neck & cool sunnies – tap into the Parisienne vibe
- Fleece Tights – cosy and stretchy for walking
- Lacy Cami – great peeking out under a cardigan or jacket
- Umbrella or sun hat – your choice for sitting in the park
- A good book – a pleasure to while away some hours when on holiday.